Red Dragon falls short of its name

December 11, 2007
By Daniel Chang

The Chinese consider both the color red and the mythical dragon particularly auspicious. I was particularly disappointing at the food coming out of Red Dragon (Davis Dr., Morrisville, NC). The food is not particularly cheap, but certainly tastes that way. There are few choices of proteins (pork, beef, chicken) and a short selection of brown sauces. The food is far from authentic. Each dish seems to be loaded up with uninspired vegetables that likely come from the frozen food section of the Harris Teeter next door.

For instance, a traditional Ma-Po Tofu is made with a chili-garlic-bean sauce base, some ground pork and some scallions. Instead, their ma-po tofu is bland and probably doesn’t have any chili-garlic-bean sauce at all. It’s also missing the ground pork. Their version is simply cubed tofu with a bunch of peas and carrots that you’d find in the frozen veggies section of your grocery store. No spice, no flavor but instead, a bunch of unexpected and unwanted veggies.

I’ve heard and read rave reviews of one of their unique signature dishes, the black pepper scallops. The “black pepper sauce” tasted straight out of a can, and I could hardly find the scallops beneath the broccoli, snow peas, mushrooms, bell peppers and onions. The scallops tasted tough and rubbery.

I also tried the curry chicken. A traditional curry chicken is heavy on the curry. It typically has potatoes, onions and perhaps carrots. Their version? Well, there’s hardly any chicken. They’ve added baby corn, snow peas, water chestnuts and the regular white mushrooms. There’s not enough flavor in the dish. Definitely lacking the “curry” power.

I have yet to determine why all these Chinese restaurants do not serve any fresh Chinese vegetables (like bok choy, choy sum, gai choy, sui choy, gai lan, or napa cabbage). I continually see the broccoli, the carrot and the white button mushroom. Here’s a hint guys–simply adding snow peas, water chestnuts and baby corn doesn’t make it Chinese. Dumping some Lee Kum Kee sauce does not make it Chinese. The only dish that is remotely flavorful is Eggplant with Oyster sauce. What happened to the traditional and creative flavors of the Orient? Have they all turned into extremely bland, boring take on the vegetables found in the grocery stores freezer aisle?

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4 Responses to Red Dragon falls short of its name

  1. S on February 14, 2008 at 1:14 am

    Do you happen to be Tsoong Nee?
    If yes, please reply to connssuratyahoodotcom.
    Old friend

  2. BigPoiDog on March 3, 2008 at 10:56 am

    Your comments on the food at Red Dragon are unnecessarily harsh and seems to be based primarily with a single dish you were disappointed with — and of all things a curry dish. If you want great curry, go eat Indian food.

    I’ve tried many of the dishes at Red Dragon and they were all done quite well. I will agree that it would be nice if they used traditional chinese veggies (I love gai lan and watercress), but most of the veggies are fresh — excluding, perhaps, water chestnuts, bambu shoots and baby corn, but I’ve never been to a chinese restaurant in the US that had these fresh.

    The prices at Red Dragon are reasonable and taking that into consideration, their offering is quite good.

  3. Anonymous on March 28, 2008 at 10:22 pm

    Prices seemed reasonable, but servings are smaller. We ordered take-out and everything came in those newer plastic round containers, which hold less than the older rectangular containers. The food quality was decent, but I’m still searching for a better price/quality/quantity balance.

  4. Madra on October 29, 2008 at 2:16 am

    You write very well.

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